Lava, Sand, and Silence: Hiking the Wild Beaches of Kekaha Kai State Park
A rugged ribbon of lava, pristine coves, and a cinder-cone climb—all minutes from Kona.
The day begins on a ribbon of highway where black lava fields shoulder up against the sea, wide and lunar. The trades comb the grasses and the horizon wears a silver edge. Turnoffs appear almost without warning—one paved and popular, the other a stubborn track threading through rough a‘a. Both lead into the same quiet universe: Kekaha Kai State Park on the Big Island’s Kona coast, a wild sweep of white sand coves, cinder cones, and ancient lava that still feels hot with history.
Trail Wisdom
Start Early, Chase Shade
Parking fills fast at Kua Bay and midday heat radiates off the lava. Aim to arrive before 9 am or late afternoon to avoid peak sun.
Footwear Matters on Lava
Closed-toe trail shoes handle sharp a‘a and hot pāhoehoe far better than flip-flops, especially on the Makalawena hike.
Watch Surf and Currents
Conditions change seasonally; swim only when the ocean is calm and always respect posted warnings and lifeguard guidance.
Pick Your Entrance Wisely
Kua Bay has a paved road and facilities; Mahai‘ula’s road is rough and slow—allow extra time or bring a higher-clearance vehicle.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Summit of Pu‘u Ku‘ili for coastline vistas and trade wind breezes
- •Anchialine pools behind Makalawena’s dunes—observe from a distance to protect fragile habitat
Wildlife
Green sea turtles (honu), Spinner dolphins (offshore)
Conservation Note
Stay off vegetated dunes, give cultural sites space, use mineral sunscreens to protect the reef, and keep at least 10 feet from turtles and 50 yards from marine mammals.
The Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail crosses the park, connecting generations of coastal settlements and fishponds along Hawai‘i Island’s leeward shore.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Shoulder-season calm, Clear water and visibility
Challenges: Strong sun, Occasional vog depending on volcanic activity
Mild mornings and typically gentle seas make spring great for hiking to Makalawena and climbing Pu‘u Ku‘ili.
summer
Best for: Swimming and snorkeling, Long sunset sessions
Challenges: Intense heat and UV, Crowds at Kua Bay, Occasional Portuguese man-of-war
Expect hot, dry weather, bath-warm water, and the park at its most inviting—bring extra water and shade.
fall
Best for: Warm water with fewer crowds, Sea turtle sightings
Challenges: Peak humidity, Tropical disturbances possible
Late summer warmth lingers; mornings are ideal for the lava hikes and afternoon swims.
winter
Best for: Whale watching offshore (Dec–Mar), Dramatic surf photography
Challenges: Larger swells can make swimming hazardous, Occasional rain squalls
Cooler air and bigger waves set a moodier tone; stick to sheltered coves when seas are up.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Closed-Toe Trail ShoesEssential
Sharp lava and heat demand sturdy soles and some toe protection.
2–3 Liters of Water + ElectrolytesEssential
The trails are fully exposed; hydration keeps you moving safely in the heat.
UPF Sun Hat and Mineral SunscreenEssential
Relentless sun makes broad-brim coverage and reef-safe protection non-negotiable.
Compact Snorkel Kit
On calm days, reefs off Kua Bay and Mahai‘ula are a rewarding bonus after your hike.
Common Questions
Do I need a 4WD vehicle to visit?
Kua Bay is accessible via paved road. The Mahai‘ula entrance requires driving a rough, rocky 1.5-mile track where higher clearance is strongly recommended.
Are there restrooms or water at the park?
Restrooms are available at Kua Bay and at Mahai‘ula, but there is no potable water anywhere in the park—bring all you need.
Is swimming safe at these beaches?
It depends on conditions. Summer is typically calmer, while winter can bring larger swells. Always assess the surf and follow posted advisories; lifeguards are present at Kua Bay but not at more remote coves.
Can I camp or have fires at Kekaha Kai?
No. The park is day-use only and fires are prohibited. Plan your visit during posted gate hours.
Are pets or drones allowed?
Pets and drones are not allowed in the park. This protects wildlife, cultural sites, and other visitors’ experiences.
How long is the hike to Makalawena Beach?
From Mahai‘ula, it’s approximately 2.6 miles round-trip over mostly flat but uneven lava and sand. Allow 1.5–2.5 hours with beach time.
What to Pack
Mineral sunscreen and UPF hat (Hawai‘i bans many chemical sunscreens and the sun is intense); 2–3 liters of water per person (no potable water in the park); Closed-toe trail shoes (lava is sharp and hot); Light towel and compact snorkel kit (rewarding swims on calm days).
Did You Know
Much of Kekaha Kai’s lava landscape was formed by Hualālai’s 1800–1801 eruption, and the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail traverses the park’s shoreline.
Quick Travel Tips
Arrive early to secure parking at Kua Bay; Expect a slow, bumpy drive to Mahai‘ula—plan extra time; Check surf forecasts before swimming, especially in winter; Bring cash-free supplies—there are no concessions inside the park.
Local Flavor
Refuel in Kailua-Kona with poke bowls at Umekes and a cold pint at Kona Brewing Co. For a quick, local-style breakfast near the airport, Pine Tree Cafe is a standby. Cap the day with shave ice in town and a sunset stroll along Ali‘i Drive.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport: Kona International (KOA), ~10–20 minutes to park entrances. Trailheads: Kua Bay turnoff between mile markers 88–89 (paved); Mahai‘ula at mile marker 90 (rough 1.5-mile lava road). Cell service: spotty to fair near Kua Bay, limited elsewhere. Permits/Fees: Day-use only; check Hawai‘i State Parks for current hours and any fee updates.
Sustainability Note
Reefs and anchialine pools are fragile—use only mineral sunscreens, avoid stepping on coral or entering brackish pools, pack out all trash, and stay off the dunes and cultural structures.
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